2017 - Von Der Fels Riesling Trocken, Keller

Zesty lime and seed-tinged apple on the nose anticipate the tart-edged, piquantly invigorating impression conveyed on a buoyant though otherwise polished palate. Suggestions of seedy green tomato and white currant add additional tangy stimulation. The long, strong finish is nearly mouth-shaking in its sense of animation, not to mention palpably chalk-suffused and consummately refreshing. I would not hesitate to cellar this as one would a top Grosses Gewächs. (Kirchspiel, Hubacker and Abtserde predominate in the blend, but due to the August hail, total volume is down by almost one-half from a normal harvest. There was so little of Keller’s less-expensive Gutsriesling that by the time I visited, he was unable to offer me a taste of it.)